So so so, up at 5.30am to take hot air balloon from Luxor to Valley of the Kings. It was v v v good - highlights being flying really low over people's houses (no doubt really p-ing them off) and really seeing how they live (notso hotso). We did a very close pass by Hatshepsut's temple which must have been breath-taking in its day. She was the first Queen to pronounce herself King of Egypt - and sported a fake beard accordingly. She also got involved in some kind of marrying-her-father fandango in a DREAM (after telling her subjects that her father was a god), which resulted in her instantly becoming a god, too. What THE HELLA were the general populous of Egypt on? 1800-GULLIBLE. I would have made a splendid Queen. "And there shall be chocolate and beautiful handbags for all".
After returning to earth (with singe-d hair), we explored the Valley of the Kings on foot - I was wearing my hat and humming the theme tune for 4 hours straight. The tomb of Ramses IX and Tuthmosis III were unbelievable. I even did a comedy intake of breath when entering the cartouche-shaped burial chamber in the Tuthmosis tomb, as the colours and frescos were stunning. Vivid, symmetrical.
Came back to home-tel and did a bad thing: lunch was cheese'n'onion crisps and a bar of chocolate: BAD KATE! Then, even more shamefully, I may have napped.
Tonight GN and I hung out with Mel and Pete at the Karnak temples cheesey, touristy Sound and Light show. Mel's infectious enthusiasm made this top fun, and I was most impressed when she took revenge on group of incredibly obnoxious Italians (who were inches away from stubbing out their fags on 5000 year old sphinxes) by deliberately camera-flashing into their faces in a very dark area. Ok, so it sounds trivial and petty now, but I actually didn't stop laughing for about 10 mins watching Italian man clutching at his face, moaning "my eyes!". Nice!
Went for fud at seafood place SANS booze. Made taxi-driver stop and buy me wine, and others beer. This resulted in table being moved from nice part of restaurant into dark corner, safely hiding us from Muslim clientele. I nearly required medical assistance after biting in a committed and enthusiastic manner into what I thought was a mild green peppery thing, only to discover the heat of Hades itself resounding from my tongue and roof of mouth through my body, manifesting in sweats, running nose, eyes, etc, while playing ye olde game of "no, no, I"m fine, it's not that hot". I've seldom had to use scalding hot curried lentil soup to douse the flames before. Cannot feel upper-half of own body now.
(Previous was slight exaggeration).
Wine here is NOT good. They have one called "Obelisk" which is made from imported French grape juice, which they 'turn' into wine. I think that involves just tipping in tons of medical-grade pure alcohol, mainly because that's exactly what it tastes like. Another is Omar Kha-something. It's better, but that still doesn't fall into the realm of a compliment. Gagging for an icy Sancerre.
In bed. Tireeeed. Tomorrow is 6-bloody-a-m wakeup call. Everyone else is going the the Valley of the Workers and Artists to see their tombs. I'm going back to Karnak - 3rd day in a row - in order to capture sunrise over 1500 years of history, all of which happened BC.
bonnes noches
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